Sunday, July 30, 2006

哈达图三八一队,牧羊。Sheep Herding, Hulunbeier, Inner Mongolia.

Spend the last 2 days with a local sheep herder. It was truly an eye-opening experience.

Photos here: http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1037659.html


金帐汗是来海拉尔游客的必去之处,虽然和其他内蒙古的草原旅游景点大同小异,但因为独自一个,因为公共交通不方便,没有太多的选择余地,我也去了这个离城市最近的景点。

花了150块来到金帐汗。我好奇,看到羊群就淌河过去看。

。。。赶火车去满洲里。。。长话短说。

一位牧羊的大叔邀请我去他家住。我去了,和他一起赶了2天羊。 等明天到了哈尔滨再上传照片。
。。。

来到哈尔滨,在上海滩洗浴俱乐部歇着,缓解一下昨天在火车上因无卧铺而熬夜的经历:旅游旺季在世界第一人口大国真是非同小可。

详叙一下赶羊的经验:

这位好客的大叔叫佟胡吉图,是蒙古族人,说东北口音的普通话(其实这边和黑龙江的人差不多),部队下岗后来海拉尔附近的草原牧羊。见我有意骑马赶羊玩,并圆我心愿。我骑他的马(叫“小不点儿”),他步行。

草原生活真是别有风味!房子是树枝和麻布作的,燃料是羊粪,水是60米深井水,洗澡几天去一次附近的镇里。方便嘛,随地解决。

4:30am 去后山放羊,9:00am 回来。羊睡人也休息。吃过饭1pm再出发去河边给羊饮水,再一路赶至后山直到7pm,圈好羊,拴住马,吃饭,睡觉。婶呢,就在家打点,买菜,喂狗,挤牛奶;下雨前收集羊粪,天热了掀开麻布吹风。

生活充实、朴实、也艰难。市价:一只羊,200-300 RMB;出奶的好牛,1万。大叔的1000只羊有一大半是帮别人赶的,有若干头牛。他对现状乐观,每天骑马赶羊,心情舒畅,身体壮。

这2天的草原牧羊生活极其愉快,即使没洗澡,以及被蚊子咬无数次。。。

Monday, July 24, 2006

Hohhot, Inner Mongolia, onto Hulunbeier. 呼和浩特,呼伦贝尔大草原

The bus from 包头(Baotou) to 呼和浩特 (Hohhot) took 2.5 hrs. It's not much different from any other city, except noticeably, 蒙牛's (Mengniu Dairy Co Ltd, 2319.hk) advertisements are everywhere.

I settled in to a 招待所 (very basic hotel) in 满都海西港. It costs only 30 RMB per night. Going to try to find my way to the nearest prairy.

...
Gonna try my luck and get a 23:13 train ticket to 呼伦贝尔(即海伦尔).

...
Tomorrow at midnight I'm taking a 37 hr train to Hu Lun Bei Er http://www.hulunbeiertour.com/, the largest grassland in China.


I really enjoyed my day in Hohhot today. People here are really very nice. The icecream tells the mood.

Sunday, July 23, 2006

内蒙古,包头。 Baotou, Inner Mongolia

Decided to come to Baotou (包头). Looking for somebody to take me out of city to the prairies. The train ride from Ying Chuan to Bao Tou was 8 hours. I learnt from a friend that 硬卧 is the safest type of train cart, 软卧 sometimes gets robbed due to it's enclosed nature.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

宁夏沙坡头,内蒙通湖草原。

回顾一下今天的旅程:

早上从中卫做公车出发,4元,过了黄土高原30+分钟有如洗衣板的土路,来到黄河边的沙漠,人称“沙坡头”。花了50块骑骆驼去腾格里过了把瘾,在沙漠里拍了几张照片,蛮新鲜的,但摆脱不料花钱买商品的感觉。这里还有很多花钱的项目,听起来都蛮吸引人的,例如做羊皮筏子在黄河上漂流。总而言之这里感觉不太自然,成了个游乐场。

吃过羊肉揪面,130元雇佣了6人小面包去了通湖大草原。其实它是个内蒙古南部的小草原,在沙漠边境,现在是个游乐场。我玩了骑马和开越野车去沙漠玩滑沙。那马不合作,离开马棚速度特慢,回去就飞快,明显不喜欢这份工作。越野车感觉不错,但那车很烂,驾驶座位的靠背坏了。滑沙蛮刺激的,在沙漠里有新鲜感,但我觉得小时候在加拿大冬天玩的 toboggan (滑雪橇)更好玩。

一天的总结是:对我而言,花钱玩这些项目不怎么值得,但是和那边的人沟通倒很愉快。西北人直爽,善良,连从事旅游业的人都如此,可想而知...

回到银川,明早去火车站,目的地未知,也许兰州,或成都,或呼和浩特。

很想找个地方上传照片... 大概我应该买个usb读卡机

Friday, July 21, 2006

宁夏。西部影城,沙湖,中卫。

昨天参观了西部影城。这里拍影过蛮多出名影片的:红高梁,黄河绝恋,大话西游等。昨夜在影城附近的华西村过的夜,吃了满肚子的羊肉,爽的。今朝兴高采烈的去了沙湖,后悔了。门票/ 船票80,但里面不怎么好玩。唯一有点兴趣的是骑骆驼,但20块只骑了2分钟,真扫兴。感觉这里是个骗钱的地方。

一小时巴士回银川,再三小时来到先所在的中卫市,明天进军著名的沙破头,然后内蒙的通湖草原,大概明天晚上可以住蒙古包。

宁夏这里的人真的好善良,我们受到的待遇就是游客应该得到的,很满意。城市里比我想象中先进,乡下比想象中落后。刚刚买了些枸杞和枸杞果酒,再逛会儿就回旅店休息。

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Tired from Hua Shan. Yin Chuan Tomorrow. 爬华山精彩但累,明日至宁夏银川。

I've been to all 5 peaks of Hua Shan (东,南,西,北,中峰). The trail is tougher and steeper than Huang Shan, but the latter mountain looks sharper. After many hours of stairs I'm kind of worn out -- need to rest and psych myself up for Ning Xia (宁夏银川) tomorrow.

More Hua Shan pictures:
http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1030968.html

Will have more photos when that USB cable and I meet again. Last night in Xi'An.

....
Just read some other people's blogs on Ning Xia travel. Must say I'm a little uneasy as Charity and I are travelling with some luggage and unprepared for the desert and the wild country, both in knowledge and in equipment. This was a last minute change of plans from the original Jiu Zhai Gou (九寨沟) idea. Price comes with creativity... Le's see how it goes.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Busy day in Xi'an. Huashan Tomorrow

Got on the tour minibus at 0730 with Charity, about 15 other tourist and a very eloquent mid-aged lady guide.

She wasn't happy about my joining her tour but sitting out the first 3 sites in the bus with a beer.

1. 临潼博物馆, Ling Tong Museum, 24 RMB, where the featured attaction was 4 of the "very first" Terra Cotta Warriors unearthed, and a piece of some shoulder bone of some famous budda. Later I found out that the 4 Soldiers were borrowed from the Terra Cotta site to boost business for the museum. I was right it was a waste of money, but some people buy the budda story

2. 华清池, 65 RMB, hot-spring-bath-themed park for the famous Yang Concubine 杨贵妃, as well as office and home of Chiang Kai-chek, after he was defeated by CCP

3. 秦始皇陵, 2x RMB, the grave site of Qin, the first emperor of China. This would have been a marvel to see except current technology still can't dig up this grave; furthermore, it is expected this will remain the case for 50 years in the horizon. Thus this site is nothing but a huge protrution of mud in the ground. You stand on it and wander what's 10 meters (?) below. Waste of money.

Charity went to the first 2 though.

We ditched the tour group and went to skip to 兵马俑, by ourselves. A local lady driver managed to temporarily convince us that the stuff in 兵马俑 was fake and was manufactured in one of the many factories along side the same main road as all of the above sites, and that if we were to see fake stuff, might as well pay 18RMB instead of 90 to see her friends fake 兵马俑.

So we bought her story and went to this "8 Wonders of the World" site, where the guide tried to convince us that Great Wall and the Leaning Tower wasn't among them. I got a little pissed and left the place then went to the 90RMB real 兵马俑.

I'd have to say it was quite something, but I'm not the type to appreciate it. Afterall, it's soldiers made from dirt, alot of them. I stare at them for about 20 seconds in amazement, then the next 2 hours was more or less boredom. I would have been more interested if the tour guide talked about the different weapons, and how they used them; but instead she spend alot of time talking about this farmer who discovered Terra Cotta, and now is famous and has a great signature designed by a famous caligrapher, and that if we buy this expensive book (which is not available elsewhere), he'd sign it for us.

I got more stuff to say about this but my card time in this computer cafe is running out.

Well, I ended the day with some nice food near 鼓楼 (Gu Lou -- Drum Gate), and bought a Tuo Luo to play with.

Sunday, July 16, 2006

Xi'an

Staying in a hotel near 鼓楼 (Gu Lou). Had a not-so-great noodel for lunch in Gu Lou but dinner was the famous 羊肉泡馍 and some other local dishes, quite good. Still, I'm hoping to taste better noodles in the coming days.

Plan tomorrow is to join some tour and go on a "East Line". It includes the Terracotta Soldiers (兵马俑), Qin's Grave (秦始皇陵) -- real and model versions, since real is too far underground to open up and get in. Another is 华清池 (Qing Hua Pond), where some famous concubine use to bath (alledgedly extravagant). They only charge 45 RMB per person to take to 7 places (door ticket not included), but of course they're hoping I'd buy some useless trinket at a heavy premium. Probably I'm going to Terracotta Soldiers and the Pond and sit out the rest of them.

The day after we're pondering Hua Shan 华山, which is supposed to be even steeper than Huang Shan. I'm looking forward to this one.

Other than that, just took a nap and walked around. People here are nice and simple, but still it's the biggest city in Shan3Xi (as opposed to Shan1Xi, which is a different eastbound province).

This cafe is full of cigarette smell.

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Westbound

Flying to Xi'an to see Terracotta Soldiers first thing tomorrow with Charity from Taiwan. Hope I recover some tonight, feel kind of beat from too much travel and too little sleep. I'll rest more and blog a little less for the coming week or so.

Weather in HK.

Below is a freeze of a Hong Kong TV programming discussing whether people working in Central should rid of their jacket in the summer heat. HK is a very local place, I bet more HKers care about this than how many died in Palestine that day.


from left: Rosanne, Raymond, Wilson
14th was my birthday, happy birthday to myself

Thursday, July 13, 2006

无锡.Wuxi

It's pronouced "Woo-Hsi", and it's between Suzhou and Nanjing, 1.5 hr due west of Shanghai via fast train. I went there to visit Lixin and taste Wuxi ribs -- it's famous and incredibly tasty (you gotta have this). I was busy feeding myself and so forgot to take a photo to tantalize you all. Here's one from the web:



Thanks to Lixin, Noriko and their 2 great boys, my day trip was super relaxing. It felt like the kind of holiday I would have taken when I was working: nice meal, park, tea, nap, snack, swim, read ...

Wuxi is a modernizing city just like it's sister city Suzhou. Growing with foreign investment and keeping it's great Fengshui intact. The parks here are pretty like Suzhou but not jam-packed with tour groups with loudspeakers.

Boys, see you in Tokyo.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

More Photos Posted, below "About Me". 新照片

Or, just go to http://ethan.fotopic.net, as usual.

请至 http://ethan.fotopic.net

Huang Shan (Yellow mountain 黄山)

Yesterday was some day. It began at 2am with watching World Cup finals, which was very dramatic and fun to watch (for the record Zidane was red carded for head budding a likewise retiring Italian guy, and the match ended 5:4 Italy victory in penalty shootout). It ended some time after 5pm,at which time I was scrambling to find a place to watch the Sunrise ...

A lot of fun followed, and I ended my Huangshan trip in high spirit but rather low energy level, which was why I ditched my group headed for Hefei, and went on my own and flew back to Shanghai.

On the ride from Hong Qiao Airport to Pudong, I noticed many new high-end hotels and new serviced apartments in the south west downtown region. I wonder where they would find quality trained staff to service this outburst of luxury accomodation. There must be professional school that produce these members of the new economy, but I'm not sure supply meets demand there. If any one is experience and well-funded in this area, I bet they can make a killing charging tuition teaching the art of serving the 1st world way.

I shouldn't romanize my my breath taking experience on Huang Shan, so I'll work on the pictures first: they're overdue...

Photos finally up...

It was a 4 days, 3 nights trip organized by an agency that does 散客 (ungrouped travellers). I must say the logistics are fairly beefed up: The travel agency schedules for me different partial events of the trip and contracts them to actual service providers, so every whole event of the trip is with a different group.

Day 1 morning was a 6 hour long bus ride from Hefei to Tangkou (汤口), a town at the foot of Huangshan. Praise is that the bus goes fast and makes only necessary stop and the driver uses the break sparingly, which made a 6.5 hr trip only 5.75 hours. Criticism is that the bus is missing a bathroom, and the driver honks profusely, I don't blame the man since many small time villagers still treat state highways as their backyard, and, honking can reduced the need for breaking in many situations. Well it was an uncomfortable, noisy ride.

Day 1 afternoon, I went to 凤凰谷 (Phoenix Valley), and 竹筏漂流 (bamboo raft drifting). The valleys of Huangshan are marvellous but they all looks more or less the same: small streams flowing through special looking rocks, with frequent rapids, falls, backgrounded by hills and mountains. Drifting was a pretty good feeling. In the old days, this is how people moved around in China, very much at one with nature, in a setting behind the inspiration of many poets.Next the driver took us to a free tea tasting session at an affiliated business partner. The girl gave a nice intro on the 10 different types of tea harvested on Huangshan did such a good job that some of us gave in and bought some. They were at a premiun to the market (villagers homes of scenic sites), but I bought some 一叶参, which is good for people who fatigue from thinking. This particular tea look like large pebbles, each scrunched from a single leaf. A one person serving is about 1/3 of a leaf, and can last 8-9 days. This is one of the special teas that can be served overnight (over-week for that matter).

Day 1's events yielded extra income for the agency as the advertised "free afternoon" as promoted became "make more money afternoon". Well, one figures one can't go anywhere by oneself without a car in the middle of somewhere that might as well be nowhere. I spent an unplanned 150 RMB plus the 26 RMB tea.

Day 2 was both visually as well as culturally rewarding. First of two village stops was 宏村 (Hong Cun - Hong Village), a well preserved mountain village special in many ways. I've got some captions that tell the story at http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1019137.html

Hong Cun was truly beautiful. A large cohort of art students almost live here: Heavenly views, flowing lifestyles, in historic technology.

2nd village was 西递 (Xi Di - Xidi Village), which is more or less the same as Hong, but in somewhat different style and Fengshui.

... to be continued.

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Yaks on tracks.

Yaks are taking interest in these Qinghai-Tibet tracks.

I hope they solve this problem soon, as I'm hoping to ride it in the near future.

Hefei. Cellphones.

Still in Hefei, safe and sound, and looking forward to a 4 day trip with a tour group around Huang Shan (黄山).

In big cities like Shanghai many people are using their third to fourth cell phones. Other than the fact that new models proliferate, their are plenty of other reason why a secondary market for cell phones are developing: The decoupled nature of carrier and the handsets; people's willingness to irrationally overspend on this particular product; and theft are among top reasons, I would imagine.

In streets of Hefei (and probably all over China), there are many one man shops that make this market, that is, a man with a stool and a sign that reads something like 高价收购手机 (Handset Buyback). Today, I've seen more than 10 in the same block. Must be a pretty good business.

Saw this on a 招商加盟网 (merchant/franchise seeking website) today:

How this thing makes money? http://www.myzx365.com/Advertise/u88.aspx

The battleground for existing ideas have room to grow but is getting fierce. It's nice to see something interesting for a change (or is this a rip off from a Korean/Japanese product?).

Monday, July 03, 2006

Suzhou weekend. Hefei tomorrow.

Had spend a great weekend in Suzhou, many thanks to Aaron. It has almost become his part time job to host friends visiting Suzhou. But I doubt it's a dull one since Suzhou is beautiful, interesting, and ever-changing.

Besides the famous Suzhou Gardens and stately homes of ancient rulers, we visited newer areas such as 新加坡苏州工业园区. The residential developments here are a sharp contrast to the "City" (as defined by the "River" -- 河内环), where no high rise is allowed, and where for new buildings, roofs are black, and walls white, to be consistent with the existing style.

A night cruise along the encircling river reveals that the Suzhou government had put their rich tax inflow to good use, and resulted in scenery soon to be envied by visitors around the world ("soon" because still not done rebuilding). Ancient city walls and gates were moved to more convenient location for sake of city planning and better viewing; bridges (there were so, so many) and trees decorated with nice lighting -- Clearly this is no small operation.

The tail of the wealth distribution in this city had gotten a lot fatter since my last visit a few years ago. The government's strategy of building highways had paid of in many ways. In terms of land mass, half of greater suzhou seems to be centered around the new modern factories. Japanese, German, American, Singaporean, and, especially, Taiwanese money are all over this place. With cash comes a new generation of expats, and with that fancy bars, clubs, restaurants, resorts, golf courses -- you name it. It seems eminent that the empty space between Shanghai and Suzhou will be filled in not so many years in the horizon.

The weekend escapade ended with a trip to Tongli (同里), where beside the 2 hour long walk in this well preserved ancient village, a more substantive gain presided -- the purchase of famous local pork hocks (状元蹄膀). I pick out a nice looking foot, had it vacuum packaged on the spot. Today, in Nanjing, I had it for lunch. Fat as it was, it was quite tasty.

This afternoon I took a local bus (游1线) to the Presidential Palace of the former Republic of China, of which Nanjing was the capital city, and Sun Yat-sen was the president. And afterward I went to the burial grounds of Mr. Sun (中山陵). Unfortunately I haven't got much insight into these 2 experience due to my scanty knowledge of Chinese history (especially the contemporary complications), except to say that the KMT (Kuo-Ming-Tang, 国民党) flag was cleverly concealed as an inconspicuous existence, presiding over the body of Sun. Another interesting thought is that although Taiwanese hail Sun as the founding father (国父), I wonder if he's ever been to Taiwan.

Tomorrow, I'm going to take a 3 hour bus to Hefei (in Anhui Province) to visit my Aunt. Hopefully I won't get mugged, as in the unsavory tales I've heard.