周游有三个多月。有些朋友问我达到了什么目的？还是仅仅欲玩地愉快？还要继续多久?其实我也说不清楚，愉快一定要的，其他就随缘。
这次出游由台湾开始，渡过新加坡，回到老家上海，去南京陪出差的女友住了一阵，游玩苏浙皖三省，后来因一系列的变数去到中国的西北和东北，之后经过中原回到香港。我并没有刻意地去仔细感受他乡风土文化，而是以个别景点为目标，东走西跑，不意中也交识了一些朋友，略有了解他们的生活，同时也被其之热情而感染。如果有缘第二次拜访或经过，和朋友们再饮一宿就算是目的。
不论目的，论结果。计划中两年的旅游才刚刚开始，我却受益非浅。路走多了，选择也会多吧。以前认准的那条大道，在新识的地图上，不然显得不那么粗大了。
还是说一些客观的东西。发现3个月用的盘缠比我预计的要多些。可能有时抱着好奇的心态去尝试，手会松一些，外加夏季旅游多方面都比较贵。以后我少买门票，多吃多喝多走路。这也算是我此季度的 resolution 吧。
在这里点评一下：
最美：黄山（身在其中方可知）
最好玩感觉最爽：台湾台东县绿岛（乱开电动车），和黄山（爬山的兴奋和壮观的风景）
印象最深刻的经历：呼伦贝尔草原上放羊（早上睁开眼睛一开门，看到一望无际的大草原，然后找一片自己的绿地尽情工作，然后骑马统领一大群山羊绵羊）
印象最深刻的城市：呼和浩特（友好热情的人），延吉（这里真的是中国吗？）
最好吃：很难评但是我依旧坚持台湾的芋圆和地瓜圆，爱玉仙草豆花冰（想想还是觉得只有这个东西对我来说百吃不厌）。其他好吃难忘的东西有台南的鳝鱼意面和周氏虾卷，花莲的麻署，新加坡的那个螃蟹，西北的手抓羊肉，无锡排骨，等等等等。
最险：华山（自古华山一条路，其之险居五岳之首，相信不虚传。）一年后应该会有把其取代的选手。
最穷：目前为止应该是在宁夏。银川至中卫途中的乡下土房。
住过最豪华的地方：北京的东方凯德华洗浴餐饮有限公司（堕落的幸福生活过了一天半）
最“想去而没去成”：九寨沟（夏季太贵，暂时无缘），台湾屏东县垦丁（发大水）
最想去还没去：新疆，西藏，青海，四川，广西，云南，少林寺，武当山，峨嵋山，泰山。因不了解所以不知道哪个最想去。
下一个目标是广西，然后贵州，云南，和四川。在九月底之前这些地方走多少算多少，也不勉强。之后经山西至山东，由客轮去韩国看看。
在此之前，在香港悠哉游哉，打算这几天写一篇正对内地朋友们的“香港攻略”，介绍一些既省精力又省钱的到港好玩法。
Wednesday, August 16, 2006
Monday, August 14, 2006
Back in Hong Kong.
在长沙呆了2个晚上。湖南人的口音可爱的。下次去湖南要去张家界和凤凰。
做早班的航班来到广州，然后马上做巴士去了中山，和 Ernest 中山地头蛇在市中心晃荡了一个下午，晚上到达深圳，在嘉年华会过夜。觉得中山蛮适合消遣过舒服日子的。
今朝终于经罗湖口岸回到香港，大陆旅程先搞一个段落。在家休息十天八天再出发。
做早班的航班来到广州，然后马上做巴士去了中山，和 Ernest 中山地头蛇在市中心晃荡了一个下午，晚上到达深圳，在嘉年华会过夜。觉得中山蛮适合消遣过舒服日子的。
今朝终于经罗湖口岸回到香港，大陆旅程先搞一个段落。在家休息十天八天再出发。
Friday, August 11, 2006
长沙。Changsha, Hunan.
天气好热，也没风。想去广州，但是只有硬座，不干。买了明天的机票，300多，还好。
也没什么事做，就去岳麓山去走走。看到很多韩国人耶！为什么呢？原来长沙是韩国临时政府旧址。韩国人真的很追根寻源的。 前几天在延边也看到很多韩国人的，把那里的飞机票抄的老高。
一会儿去星沙的芙蓉小区看看朋友家造的房子，听说很有名的。
也没什么事做，就去岳麓山去走走。看到很多韩国人耶！为什么呢？原来长沙是韩国临时政府旧址。韩国人真的很追根寻源的。 前几天在延边也看到很多韩国人的，把那里的飞机票抄的老高。
一会儿去星沙的芙蓉小区看看朋友家造的房子，听说很有名的。
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
九江，庐山，南昌。Jiangxi Province
庐山的真面目就是一个比较秀气的瀑布，流量极小（至少今天是），比普通瀑布非凡些。庐山上有个小镇，因李白的那首诗现在繁荣着。其实“飞流直下三千尺”，因该改成155米。那三叠泉在山下，但为了小镇的繁荣，庐山的设施建设要求游客先上山，再下山。很折腾，也很花钱。一套一套的门票，和车票：从九江开始，要花大概400+块钱，过很颠的山路，下1400+个台阶，才能看到那庐山瀑布。当然，也可以花很多时间和精力取省车钱和缆车钱。三叠泉下有公路，只要把大门的台阶放在那里，就没那么多麻烦了。当然，庐山的人是不会那样做的。三叠泉的骄子生意，以及120rmb的景点线包车生意，好得不得了。
To be fair, 为了赶回香港，我不想逗留在九江附近，所以也没静心去欣赏庐山。今朝到的九江，匆匆赶去庐山，花钱买时间，回到九江马上就跳上去南昌的汽车。今晚在南昌过。
南昌比想象中要繁荣的多。城市发展和南京差不多，可能还快点。
累了，找地方洗澡睡觉。明天去长沙。
To be fair, 为了赶回香港，我不想逗留在九江附近，所以也没静心去欣赏庐山。今朝到的九江，匆匆赶去庐山，花钱买时间，回到九江马上就跳上去南昌的汽车。今晚在南昌过。
南昌比想象中要繁荣的多。城市发展和南京差不多，可能还快点。
累了，找地方洗澡睡觉。明天去长沙。
Monday, August 07, 2006
Shanghai.
Haven't witnessed blue skies like this in Shanghai in recent memory. My city still has hope ...
Yet another long train ride tomorrow. This time to 九江 (Jiu Jiang) in Jiang Xi province. The famous 庐山 (Lu Shan) is around there. Probably heading to 南昌 (Nan Chang) and then 长沙 (Chang Sha) afterwards, working my way back to Pearl River Delta.
Yet another long train ride tomorrow. This time to 九江 (Jiu Jiang) in Jiang Xi province. The famous 庐山 (Lu Shan) is around there. Probably heading to 南昌 (Nan Chang) and then 长沙 (Chang Sha) afterwards, working my way back to Pearl River Delta.
Sunday, August 06, 2006
Via Beijing to Shanghai.
After having enjoyed some luxury at 东方凯德华洗浴有限公司 (Bath and recreation place), and having had a drink with Ernest in 三里屯, I flew to Shanghai.
I would highly recommend travellers to go here (if you speak at least some Chinese). For 88 RMB you get to enjoy their luxious bathing facilities (jacuzzi, hydropool, etc; very clean), buffet breakfast and dinner (there must be over 30 foods dinnertime, including sashimi and peking duck), and overnight stay in a sofa bed. If you spend another 88 on massages, then you can stay in the "Movie Room" where it's a real bed; that's what I did. They got internet, reading room, snooker, gym, guys to scrub your back, etc ... Pretty good deal compared to a hotel room; some people bring their whole family over for some relaxing time.
Beijing is certainly moving very quickly in vamping up for the Olympics. Roads that were unpaved near 三里屯 in my last visit in Dec'05 are now fixed up. The city's taxis teamed up with Hyundai and gave the cab fleet new cars and new looks. For the record, in the old system there were 3 prices, corresponding to 3 different sedan sizes; thus to the Beijing-visitor it felt like arbitrary pricing. Streets are wider than Shanghai's , and speed limits are universally obeyed, thanks to radars everywhere and a strictly enforced 200 RMB speeding fine. They're moving quickly to remodelled "Hutongs" as well.
The sky in Beijing, nevertheless, is not up for a quick fix. It's as gray as ever. In my airport limo ride, the sun looked like the moon...
Service in Beijing seems to be improving but still substandard compared to the South. I guess it takes time to shake off the SOE (State Owned Enterprise) mentality and embrace capitalism with some cordialness towards customers. Fancy new buildings and embellished interiors are a good start though.
I would highly recommend travellers to go here (if you speak at least some Chinese). For 88 RMB you get to enjoy their luxious bathing facilities (jacuzzi, hydropool, etc; very clean), buffet breakfast and dinner (there must be over 30 foods dinnertime, including sashimi and peking duck), and overnight stay in a sofa bed. If you spend another 88 on massages, then you can stay in the "Movie Room" where it's a real bed; that's what I did. They got internet, reading room, snooker, gym, guys to scrub your back, etc ... Pretty good deal compared to a hotel room; some people bring their whole family over for some relaxing time.
Beijing is certainly moving very quickly in vamping up for the Olympics. Roads that were unpaved near 三里屯 in my last visit in Dec'05 are now fixed up. The city's taxis teamed up with Hyundai and gave the cab fleet new cars and new looks. For the record, in the old system there were 3 prices, corresponding to 3 different sedan sizes; thus to the Beijing-visitor it felt like arbitrary pricing. Streets are wider than Shanghai's , and speed limits are universally obeyed, thanks to radars everywhere and a strictly enforced 200 RMB speeding fine. They're moving quickly to remodelled "Hutongs" as well.
The sky in Beijing, nevertheless, is not up for a quick fix. It's as gray as ever. In my airport limo ride, the sun looked like the moon...
Service in Beijing seems to be improving but still substandard compared to the South. I guess it takes time to shake off the SOE (State Owned Enterprise) mentality and embrace capitalism with some cordialness towards customers. Fancy new buildings and embellished interiors are a good start though.
Friday, August 04, 2006
Northeast. 东北：哈尔滨，牡丹江，延边，长白山
After an exhausting 4 day trip in the Northeast. I'm finally resting in a "Bathing Recreation Centre" in Beijing. Where possible I take lodging in this type of place in lieu of hotels. If you've been to one, the reason why is a no-brainer -- they're only getting more and more luxurious, and more competitive. The cost is only fraction of a 3-star hotel room. I'll make a list of ones I've been to in time to come.
Well, after my stint herding 1000 sheep, I took a train to Harbin to meet up with Uncle Yeung (that would be Rosanne's dad), who was on holiday. We, regrettably, bought a 4 day package to the following places. I say regrettably because we could have easily done this one our own, more economically, and in better style.
牡丹江 (Mu Dan Jiang), where I was somewhat ill, and missed out on 2 alledgedly unexciting sights : 底下森林 Underground forest -- basically a forest in a volcanic opening, and, 镜泊湖 Jing Po Lake -- an better than ordinary lake. The food was no good and lodging was crappy -- unclean, hot water and flushing problems.
延边，延吉 (Yan Ji, Bordering North Korea). For me this was very interesting. Yan Ji was the most unique city in my China experience. Han Chinese are definitely outnumbered by the Korean Ethnic Group. All signs are bilingual (Chinese/Korean). Yan Ji is one of the wealthiest places in the Northeast. People here go abroad (S.Korea as a primary destination) to work and like spend the money back home. The CCP subsidizes Korean Ethnics with housing (free house in some cases) so as to appease this people. I had some famous local dog meat and cold noodles. People here are very nice.
长白山 (Chang Bai Mountain). 长白山天池 (Chanbai Shan Volvanic Lake) is the main attraction. Our tour made us spend 80rmb each to ride a Chevy Blazer-like car up to the peak where one can view the volcanic lake. Well, it was cold and windy like hell up there and after 15 minutes of freezing my ass off, I managed to catch a 5 second glimpse of this amazingly beautiful lake. Still, the view was blurred by clouds. Here's picture I stole from the Net. To Koreans (or at least to the many that visit), Chang Bai Shan beholds the origins of their people and is a sacred mountain. The Volcanic Opening would be the most sacred site. I heard that many Koreans cried tears of regret and disappointment when they were unable to see the lake due to heavy clouds (which is common). This is a sharp contrast to the many Chinese visitors who condemn the weather as well as their tour guide for taking them a long way to see some clouds. It is true that Changbaishan is but one of many marvels in China's landscape, perhaps too many to the extend that many Han Chinese don't treasure them. The locals Han in the tourism industry pollute, cheat, evade tax, etc, to cut costs and create more private wealth. For example, my package purposely didn't include some necessary tickets (the 80RMB 4-wheel ride up to the peak for one), and asked us to for more cash to purchase these tickets. In the end, they collected all the tickets (which were also receipts) for tax deduction purposes. They also bought us foam-box lunches (which were no good) to eat in the dusty parking lot at the foot of the mountain, which ended up as the dumping ground.
These sites are a few hundred kilometres apart from each other, but connected by winding and bumpy roads, or slow trains. Thus we spent majority of the time suffering in long train/bus rides, cajoling cheap bus drivers to turn on the A/C once in a while.
People in the Northeast have a very strong sense of brotherhood. This is a deep rooted local tradition that's well known to all Chinese. Businesses, however, are less sophistated than the South; corruption and business malpractices are common. Even in my short 4-day trip, this was apparent in many ways...
It's summer peak season and train tickets are hard to come by -- very hard. This made my impromptu travelling less easy. I decided to cut the chase and fly back to modern civilization. The short 1.5 hr flight from Yan Ji to Beijing costed 1130 RMB!!! -- and this was a midnight flight ...
Think I'll head back to HK in a few more days, and start again when travel discounts kick in, and trains are not so crazily packed. Also I should gain back the lost weight in 3 months of almost non-stop travelling...
Well, after my stint herding 1000 sheep, I took a train to Harbin to meet up with Uncle Yeung (that would be Rosanne's dad), who was on holiday. We, regrettably, bought a 4 day package to the following places. I say regrettably because we could have easily done this one our own, more economically, and in better style.
牡丹江 (Mu Dan Jiang), where I was somewhat ill, and missed out on 2 alledgedly unexciting sights : 底下森林 Underground forest -- basically a forest in a volcanic opening, and, 镜泊湖 Jing Po Lake -- an better than ordinary lake. The food was no good and lodging was crappy -- unclean, hot water and flushing problems.
延边，延吉 (Yan Ji, Bordering North Korea). For me this was very interesting. Yan Ji was the most unique city in my China experience. Han Chinese are definitely outnumbered by the Korean Ethnic Group. All signs are bilingual (Chinese/Korean). Yan Ji is one of the wealthiest places in the Northeast. People here go abroad (S.Korea as a primary destination) to work and like spend the money back home. The CCP subsidizes Korean Ethnics with housing (free house in some cases) so as to appease this people. I had some famous local dog meat and cold noodles. People here are very nice.
长白山 (Chang Bai Mountain). 长白山天池 (Chanbai Shan Volvanic Lake) is the main attraction. Our tour made us spend 80rmb each to ride a Chevy Blazer-like car up to the peak where one can view the volcanic lake. Well, it was cold and windy like hell up there and after 15 minutes of freezing my ass off, I managed to catch a 5 second glimpse of this amazingly beautiful lake. Still, the view was blurred by clouds. Here's picture I stole from the Net. To Koreans (or at least to the many that visit), Chang Bai Shan beholds the origins of their people and is a sacred mountain. The Volcanic Opening would be the most sacred site. I heard that many Koreans cried tears of regret and disappointment when they were unable to see the lake due to heavy clouds (which is common). This is a sharp contrast to the many Chinese visitors who condemn the weather as well as their tour guide for taking them a long way to see some clouds. It is true that Changbaishan is but one of many marvels in China's landscape, perhaps too many to the extend that many Han Chinese don't treasure them. The locals Han in the tourism industry pollute, cheat, evade tax, etc, to cut costs and create more private wealth. For example, my package purposely didn't include some necessary tickets (the 80RMB 4-wheel ride up to the peak for one), and asked us to for more cash to purchase these tickets. In the end, they collected all the tickets (which were also receipts) for tax deduction purposes. They also bought us foam-box lunches (which were no good) to eat in the dusty parking lot at the foot of the mountain, which ended up as the dumping ground.
These sites are a few hundred kilometres apart from each other, but connected by winding and bumpy roads, or slow trains. Thus we spent majority of the time suffering in long train/bus rides, cajoling cheap bus drivers to turn on the A/C once in a while.
People in the Northeast have a very strong sense of brotherhood. This is a deep rooted local tradition that's well known to all Chinese. Businesses, however, are less sophistated than the South; corruption and business malpractices are common. Even in my short 4-day trip, this was apparent in many ways...
It's summer peak season and train tickets are hard to come by -- very hard. This made my impromptu travelling less easy. I decided to cut the chase and fly back to modern civilization. The short 1.5 hr flight from Yan Ji to Beijing costed 1130 RMB!!! -- and this was a midnight flight ...
Think I'll head back to HK in a few more days, and start again when travel discounts kick in, and trains are not so crazily packed. Also I should gain back the lost weight in 3 months of almost non-stop travelling...
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