周游有三个多月。有些朋友问我达到了什么目的？还是仅仅欲玩地愉快？还要继续多久?其实我也说不清楚，愉快一定要的，其他就随缘。
这次出游由台湾开始，渡过新加坡，回到老家上海，去南京陪出差的女友住了一阵，游玩苏浙皖三省，后来因一系列的变数去到中国的西北和东北，之后经过中原回到香港。我并没有刻意地去仔细感受他乡风土文化，而是以个别景点为目标，东走西跑，不意中也交识了一些朋友，略有了解他们的生活，同时也被其之热情而感染。如果有缘第二次拜访或经过，和朋友们再饮一宿就算是目的。
不论目的，论结果。计划中两年的旅游才刚刚开始，我却受益非浅。路走多了，选择也会多吧。以前认准的那条大道，在新识的地图上，不然显得不那么粗大了。
还是说一些客观的东西。发现3个月用的盘缠比我预计的要多些。可能有时抱着好奇的心态去尝试，手会松一些，外加夏季旅游多方面都比较贵。以后我少买门票，多吃多喝多走路。这也算是我此季度的 resolution 吧。
在这里点评一下：
最美：黄山（身在其中方可知）
最好玩感觉最爽：台湾台东县绿岛（乱开电动车），和黄山（爬山的兴奋和壮观的风景）
印象最深刻的经历：呼伦贝尔草原上放羊（早上睁开眼睛一开门，看到一望无际的大草原，然后找一片自己的绿地尽情工作，然后骑马统领一大群山羊绵羊）
印象最深刻的城市：呼和浩特（友好热情的人），延吉（这里真的是中国吗？）
最好吃：很难评但是我依旧坚持台湾的芋圆和地瓜圆，爱玉仙草豆花冰（想想还是觉得只有这个东西对我来说百吃不厌）。其他好吃难忘的东西有台南的鳝鱼意面和周氏虾卷，花莲的麻署，新加坡的那个螃蟹，西北的手抓羊肉，无锡排骨，等等等等。
最险：华山（自古华山一条路，其之险居五岳之首，相信不虚传。）一年后应该会有把其取代的选手。
最穷：目前为止应该是在宁夏。银川至中卫途中的乡下土房。
住过最豪华的地方：北京的东方凯德华洗浴餐饮有限公司（堕落的幸福生活过了一天半）
最“想去而没去成”：九寨沟（夏季太贵，暂时无缘），台湾屏东县垦丁（发大水）
最想去还没去：新疆，西藏，青海，四川，广西，云南，少林寺，武当山，峨嵋山，泰山。因不了解所以不知道哪个最想去。
下一个目标是广西，然后贵州，云南，和四川。在九月底之前这些地方走多少算多少，也不勉强。之后经山西至山东，由客轮去韩国看看。
在此之前，在香港悠哉游哉，打算这几天写一篇正对内地朋友们的“香港攻略”，介绍一些既省精力又省钱的到港好玩法。
Wednesday, August 16, 2006
Monday, August 14, 2006
Back in Hong Kong.
在长沙呆了2个晚上。湖南人的口音可爱的。下次去湖南要去张家界和凤凰。
做早班的航班来到广州，然后马上做巴士去了中山，和 Ernest 中山地头蛇在市中心晃荡了一个下午，晚上到达深圳，在嘉年华会过夜。觉得中山蛮适合消遣过舒服日子的。
今朝终于经罗湖口岸回到香港，大陆旅程先搞一个段落。在家休息十天八天再出发。
做早班的航班来到广州，然后马上做巴士去了中山，和 Ernest 中山地头蛇在市中心晃荡了一个下午，晚上到达深圳，在嘉年华会过夜。觉得中山蛮适合消遣过舒服日子的。
今朝终于经罗湖口岸回到香港，大陆旅程先搞一个段落。在家休息十天八天再出发。
Friday, August 11, 2006
长沙。Changsha, Hunan.
天气好热，也没风。想去广州，但是只有硬座，不干。买了明天的机票，300多，还好。
也没什么事做，就去岳麓山去走走。看到很多韩国人耶！为什么呢？原来长沙是韩国临时政府旧址。韩国人真的很追根寻源的。 前几天在延边也看到很多韩国人的，把那里的飞机票抄的老高。
一会儿去星沙的芙蓉小区看看朋友家造的房子，听说很有名的。
也没什么事做，就去岳麓山去走走。看到很多韩国人耶！为什么呢？原来长沙是韩国临时政府旧址。韩国人真的很追根寻源的。 前几天在延边也看到很多韩国人的，把那里的飞机票抄的老高。
一会儿去星沙的芙蓉小区看看朋友家造的房子，听说很有名的。
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
九江，庐山，南昌。Jiangxi Province
庐山的真面目就是一个比较秀气的瀑布，流量极小（至少今天是），比普通瀑布非凡些。庐山上有个小镇，因李白的那首诗现在繁荣着。其实“飞流直下三千尺”，因该改成155米。那三叠泉在山下，但为了小镇的繁荣，庐山的设施建设要求游客先上山，再下山。很折腾，也很花钱。一套一套的门票，和车票：从九江开始，要花大概400+块钱，过很颠的山路，下1400+个台阶，才能看到那庐山瀑布。当然，也可以花很多时间和精力取省车钱和缆车钱。三叠泉下有公路，只要把大门的台阶放在那里，就没那么多麻烦了。当然，庐山的人是不会那样做的。三叠泉的骄子生意，以及120rmb的景点线包车生意，好得不得了。
To be fair, 为了赶回香港，我不想逗留在九江附近，所以也没静心去欣赏庐山。今朝到的九江，匆匆赶去庐山，花钱买时间，回到九江马上就跳上去南昌的汽车。今晚在南昌过。
南昌比想象中要繁荣的多。城市发展和南京差不多，可能还快点。
累了，找地方洗澡睡觉。明天去长沙。
To be fair, 为了赶回香港，我不想逗留在九江附近，所以也没静心去欣赏庐山。今朝到的九江，匆匆赶去庐山，花钱买时间，回到九江马上就跳上去南昌的汽车。今晚在南昌过。
南昌比想象中要繁荣的多。城市发展和南京差不多，可能还快点。
累了，找地方洗澡睡觉。明天去长沙。
Monday, August 07, 2006
Shanghai.
Haven't witnessed blue skies like this in Shanghai in recent memory. My city still has hope ...
Yet another long train ride tomorrow. This time to 九江 (Jiu Jiang) in Jiang Xi province. The famous 庐山 (Lu Shan) is around there. Probably heading to 南昌 (Nan Chang) and then 长沙 (Chang Sha) afterwards, working my way back to Pearl River Delta.
Yet another long train ride tomorrow. This time to 九江 (Jiu Jiang) in Jiang Xi province. The famous 庐山 (Lu Shan) is around there. Probably heading to 南昌 (Nan Chang) and then 长沙 (Chang Sha) afterwards, working my way back to Pearl River Delta.
Sunday, August 06, 2006
Via Beijing to Shanghai.
After having enjoyed some luxury at 东方凯德华洗浴有限公司 (Bath and recreation place), and having had a drink with Ernest in 三里屯, I flew to Shanghai.
I would highly recommend travellers to go here (if you speak at least some Chinese). For 88 RMB you get to enjoy their luxious bathing facilities (jacuzzi, hydropool, etc; very clean), buffet breakfast and dinner (there must be over 30 foods dinnertime, including sashimi and peking duck), and overnight stay in a sofa bed. If you spend another 88 on massages, then you can stay in the "Movie Room" where it's a real bed; that's what I did. They got internet, reading room, snooker, gym, guys to scrub your back, etc ... Pretty good deal compared to a hotel room; some people bring their whole family over for some relaxing time.
Beijing is certainly moving very quickly in vamping up for the Olympics. Roads that were unpaved near 三里屯 in my last visit in Dec'05 are now fixed up. The city's taxis teamed up with Hyundai and gave the cab fleet new cars and new looks. For the record, in the old system there were 3 prices, corresponding to 3 different sedan sizes; thus to the Beijing-visitor it felt like arbitrary pricing. Streets are wider than Shanghai's , and speed limits are universally obeyed, thanks to radars everywhere and a strictly enforced 200 RMB speeding fine. They're moving quickly to remodelled "Hutongs" as well.
The sky in Beijing, nevertheless, is not up for a quick fix. It's as gray as ever. In my airport limo ride, the sun looked like the moon...
Service in Beijing seems to be improving but still substandard compared to the South. I guess it takes time to shake off the SOE (State Owned Enterprise) mentality and embrace capitalism with some cordialness towards customers. Fancy new buildings and embellished interiors are a good start though.
I would highly recommend travellers to go here (if you speak at least some Chinese). For 88 RMB you get to enjoy their luxious bathing facilities (jacuzzi, hydropool, etc; very clean), buffet breakfast and dinner (there must be over 30 foods dinnertime, including sashimi and peking duck), and overnight stay in a sofa bed. If you spend another 88 on massages, then you can stay in the "Movie Room" where it's a real bed; that's what I did. They got internet, reading room, snooker, gym, guys to scrub your back, etc ... Pretty good deal compared to a hotel room; some people bring their whole family over for some relaxing time.
Beijing is certainly moving very quickly in vamping up for the Olympics. Roads that were unpaved near 三里屯 in my last visit in Dec'05 are now fixed up. The city's taxis teamed up with Hyundai and gave the cab fleet new cars and new looks. For the record, in the old system there were 3 prices, corresponding to 3 different sedan sizes; thus to the Beijing-visitor it felt like arbitrary pricing. Streets are wider than Shanghai's , and speed limits are universally obeyed, thanks to radars everywhere and a strictly enforced 200 RMB speeding fine. They're moving quickly to remodelled "Hutongs" as well.
The sky in Beijing, nevertheless, is not up for a quick fix. It's as gray as ever. In my airport limo ride, the sun looked like the moon...
Service in Beijing seems to be improving but still substandard compared to the South. I guess it takes time to shake off the SOE (State Owned Enterprise) mentality and embrace capitalism with some cordialness towards customers. Fancy new buildings and embellished interiors are a good start though.
Friday, August 04, 2006
Northeast. 东北：哈尔滨，牡丹江，延边，长白山
After an exhausting 4 day trip in the Northeast. I'm finally resting in a "Bathing Recreation Centre" in Beijing. Where possible I take lodging in this type of place in lieu of hotels. If you've been to one, the reason why is a no-brainer -- they're only getting more and more luxurious, and more competitive. The cost is only fraction of a 3-star hotel room. I'll make a list of ones I've been to in time to come.
Well, after my stint herding 1000 sheep, I took a train to Harbin to meet up with Uncle Yeung (that would be Rosanne's dad), who was on holiday. We, regrettably, bought a 4 day package to the following places. I say regrettably because we could have easily done this one our own, more economically, and in better style.
牡丹江 (Mu Dan Jiang), where I was somewhat ill, and missed out on 2 alledgedly unexciting sights : 底下森林 Underground forest -- basically a forest in a volcanic opening, and, 镜泊湖 Jing Po Lake -- an better than ordinary lake. The food was no good and lodging was crappy -- unclean, hot water and flushing problems.
延边，延吉 (Yan Ji, Bordering North Korea). For me this was very interesting. Yan Ji was the most unique city in my China experience. Han Chinese are definitely outnumbered by the Korean Ethnic Group. All signs are bilingual (Chinese/Korean). Yan Ji is one of the wealthiest places in the Northeast. People here go abroad (S.Korea as a primary destination) to work and like spend the money back home. The CCP subsidizes Korean Ethnics with housing (free house in some cases) so as to appease this people. I had some famous local dog meat and cold noodles. People here are very nice.
长白山 (Chang Bai Mountain). 长白山天池 (Chanbai Shan Volvanic Lake) is the main attraction. Our tour made us spend 80rmb each to ride a Chevy Blazer-like car up to the peak where one can view the volcanic lake. Well, it was cold and windy like hell up there and after 15 minutes of freezing my ass off, I managed to catch a 5 second glimpse of this amazingly beautiful lake. Still, the view was blurred by clouds. Here's picture I stole from the Net. To Koreans (or at least to the many that visit), Chang Bai Shan beholds the origins of their people and is a sacred mountain. The Volcanic Opening would be the most sacred site. I heard that many Koreans cried tears of regret and disappointment when they were unable to see the lake due to heavy clouds (which is common). This is a sharp contrast to the many Chinese visitors who condemn the weather as well as their tour guide for taking them a long way to see some clouds. It is true that Changbaishan is but one of many marvels in China's landscape, perhaps too many to the extend that many Han Chinese don't treasure them. The locals Han in the tourism industry pollute, cheat, evade tax, etc, to cut costs and create more private wealth. For example, my package purposely didn't include some necessary tickets (the 80RMB 4-wheel ride up to the peak for one), and asked us to for more cash to purchase these tickets. In the end, they collected all the tickets (which were also receipts) for tax deduction purposes. They also bought us foam-box lunches (which were no good) to eat in the dusty parking lot at the foot of the mountain, which ended up as the dumping ground.
These sites are a few hundred kilometres apart from each other, but connected by winding and bumpy roads, or slow trains. Thus we spent majority of the time suffering in long train/bus rides, cajoling cheap bus drivers to turn on the A/C once in a while.
People in the Northeast have a very strong sense of brotherhood. This is a deep rooted local tradition that's well known to all Chinese. Businesses, however, are less sophistated than the South; corruption and business malpractices are common. Even in my short 4-day trip, this was apparent in many ways...
It's summer peak season and train tickets are hard to come by -- very hard. This made my impromptu travelling less easy. I decided to cut the chase and fly back to modern civilization. The short 1.5 hr flight from Yan Ji to Beijing costed 1130 RMB!!! -- and this was a midnight flight ...
Think I'll head back to HK in a few more days, and start again when travel discounts kick in, and trains are not so crazily packed. Also I should gain back the lost weight in 3 months of almost non-stop travelling...
Well, after my stint herding 1000 sheep, I took a train to Harbin to meet up with Uncle Yeung (that would be Rosanne's dad), who was on holiday. We, regrettably, bought a 4 day package to the following places. I say regrettably because we could have easily done this one our own, more economically, and in better style.
牡丹江 (Mu Dan Jiang), where I was somewhat ill, and missed out on 2 alledgedly unexciting sights : 底下森林 Underground forest -- basically a forest in a volcanic opening, and, 镜泊湖 Jing Po Lake -- an better than ordinary lake. The food was no good and lodging was crappy -- unclean, hot water and flushing problems.
延边，延吉 (Yan Ji, Bordering North Korea). For me this was very interesting. Yan Ji was the most unique city in my China experience. Han Chinese are definitely outnumbered by the Korean Ethnic Group. All signs are bilingual (Chinese/Korean). Yan Ji is one of the wealthiest places in the Northeast. People here go abroad (S.Korea as a primary destination) to work and like spend the money back home. The CCP subsidizes Korean Ethnics with housing (free house in some cases) so as to appease this people. I had some famous local dog meat and cold noodles. People here are very nice.
长白山 (Chang Bai Mountain). 长白山天池 (Chanbai Shan Volvanic Lake) is the main attraction. Our tour made us spend 80rmb each to ride a Chevy Blazer-like car up to the peak where one can view the volcanic lake. Well, it was cold and windy like hell up there and after 15 minutes of freezing my ass off, I managed to catch a 5 second glimpse of this amazingly beautiful lake. Still, the view was blurred by clouds. Here's picture I stole from the Net. To Koreans (or at least to the many that visit), Chang Bai Shan beholds the origins of their people and is a sacred mountain. The Volcanic Opening would be the most sacred site. I heard that many Koreans cried tears of regret and disappointment when they were unable to see the lake due to heavy clouds (which is common). This is a sharp contrast to the many Chinese visitors who condemn the weather as well as their tour guide for taking them a long way to see some clouds. It is true that Changbaishan is but one of many marvels in China's landscape, perhaps too many to the extend that many Han Chinese don't treasure them. The locals Han in the tourism industry pollute, cheat, evade tax, etc, to cut costs and create more private wealth. For example, my package purposely didn't include some necessary tickets (the 80RMB 4-wheel ride up to the peak for one), and asked us to for more cash to purchase these tickets. In the end, they collected all the tickets (which were also receipts) for tax deduction purposes. They also bought us foam-box lunches (which were no good) to eat in the dusty parking lot at the foot of the mountain, which ended up as the dumping ground.
These sites are a few hundred kilometres apart from each other, but connected by winding and bumpy roads, or slow trains. Thus we spent majority of the time suffering in long train/bus rides, cajoling cheap bus drivers to turn on the A/C once in a while.
People in the Northeast have a very strong sense of brotherhood. This is a deep rooted local tradition that's well known to all Chinese. Businesses, however, are less sophistated than the South; corruption and business malpractices are common. Even in my short 4-day trip, this was apparent in many ways...
It's summer peak season and train tickets are hard to come by -- very hard. This made my impromptu travelling less easy. I decided to cut the chase and fly back to modern civilization. The short 1.5 hr flight from Yan Ji to Beijing costed 1130 RMB!!! -- and this was a midnight flight ...
Think I'll head back to HK in a few more days, and start again when travel discounts kick in, and trains are not so crazily packed. Also I should gain back the lost weight in 3 months of almost non-stop travelling...
Sunday, July 30, 2006
哈达图三八一队，牧羊。Sheep Herding, Hulunbeier, Inner Mongolia.
Spend the last 2 days with a local sheep herder. It was truly an eye-opening experience.
Photos here: http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1037659.html
Photos here: http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1037659.html
金帐汗是来海拉尔游客的必去之处，虽然和其他内蒙古的草原旅游景点大同小异，但因为独自一个，因为公共交通不方便，没有太多的选择余地，我也去了这个离城市最近的景点。
花了150块来到金帐汗。我好奇，看到羊群就淌河过去看。
。。。赶火车去满洲里。。。长话短说。
一位牧羊的大叔邀请我去他家住。我去了，和他一起赶了2天羊。 等明天到了哈尔滨再上传照片。
。。。
来到哈尔滨，在上海滩洗浴俱乐部歇着，缓解一下昨天在火车上因无卧铺而熬夜的经历：旅游旺季在世界第一人口大国真是非同小可。
详叙一下赶羊的经验：
这位好客的大叔叫佟胡吉图，是蒙古族人，说东北口音的普通话（其实这边和黑龙江的人差不多），部队下岗后来海拉尔附近的草原牧羊。见我有意骑马赶羊玩，并圆我心愿。我骑他的马（叫“小不点儿”），他步行。
草原生活真是别有风味！房子是树枝和麻布作的，燃料是羊粪，水是60米深井水，洗澡几天去一次附近的镇里。方便嘛，随地解决。
4:30am 去后山放羊，9:00am 回来。羊睡人也休息。吃过饭1pm再出发去河边给羊饮水，再一路赶至后山直到7pm，圈好羊，拴住马，吃饭，睡觉。婶呢，就在家打点，买菜，喂狗，挤牛奶；下雨前收集羊粪，天热了掀开麻布吹风。
生活充实、朴实、也艰难。市价：一只羊，200-300 RMB；出奶的好牛，1万。大叔的1000只羊有一大半是帮别人赶的，有若干头牛。他对现状乐观，每天骑马赶羊，心情舒畅，身体壮。
这2天的草原牧羊生活极其愉快，即使没洗澡，以及被蚊子咬无数次。。。
Monday, July 24, 2006
Hohhot, Inner Mongolia, onto Hulunbeier. 呼和浩特，呼伦贝尔大草原
The bus from 包头(Baotou) to 呼和浩特 (Hohhot) took 2.5 hrs. It's not much different from any other city, except noticeably, 蒙牛's (Mengniu Dairy Co Ltd, 2319.hk) advertisements are everywhere.
I settled in to a 招待所 (very basic hotel) in 满都海西港. It costs only 30 RMB per night. Going to try to find my way to the nearest prairy.
...
Gonna try my luck and get a 23:13 train ticket to 呼伦贝尔（即海伦尔）.
...
Tomorrow at midnight I'm taking a 37 hr train to Hu Lun Bei Er
http://www.hulunbeiertour.com/, the largest grassland in China.
I really enjoyed my day in Hohhot today. People here are really very nice. The icecream tells the mood.
I settled in to a 招待所 (very basic hotel) in 满都海西港. It costs only 30 RMB per night. Going to try to find my way to the nearest prairy.
...
Gonna try my luck and get a 23:13 train ticket to 呼伦贝尔（即海伦尔）.
...
Tomorrow at midnight I'm taking a 37 hr train to Hu Lun Bei Er
http://www.hulunbeiertour.com/, the largest grassland in China.I really enjoyed my day in Hohhot today. People here are really very nice. The icecream tells the mood.
Sunday, July 23, 2006
内蒙古，包头。 Baotou, Inner Mongolia
Decided to come to Baotou (包头). Looking for somebody to take me out of city to the prairies. The train ride from Ying Chuan to Bao Tou was 8 hours. I learnt from a friend that 硬卧 is the safest type of train cart, 软卧 sometimes gets robbed due to it's enclosed nature.
Saturday, July 22, 2006
宁夏沙坡头，内蒙通湖草原。
回顾一下今天的旅程：早上从中卫做公车出发，4元，过了黄土高原30＋分钟有如洗衣板的土路，来到黄河边的沙漠，人称“沙坡头”。花了50块骑骆驼去腾格里过了把瘾，在沙漠里拍了几张照片，蛮新鲜的，但摆脱不料花钱买商品的感觉。这里还有很多花钱的项目，听起来都蛮吸引人的，例如做羊皮筏子在黄河上漂流。总而言之这里感觉不太自然，成了个游乐场。
吃过羊肉揪面，130元雇佣了6人小面包去了通湖大草原。其实它是个内蒙古南部的小草原，在沙漠边境，现在是个游乐场。我玩了骑马和开越野车去沙漠玩滑沙。那马不合作，离开马棚速度特慢，回去就飞快，明显不喜欢这份工作。越野车感觉不错，但那车很烂，驾驶座位的靠背坏了。滑沙蛮刺激的，在沙漠里有新鲜感，但我觉得小时候在加拿大冬天玩的 toboggan （滑雪橇）更好玩。
一天的总结是：对我而言，花钱玩这些项目不怎么值得，但是和那边的人沟通倒很愉快。西北人直爽，善良，连从事旅游业的人都如此，可想而知...
回到银川，明早去火车站，目的地未知，也许兰州，或成都，或呼和浩特。
很想找个地方上传照片... 大概我应该买个usb读卡机
Friday, July 21, 2006
宁夏。西部影城，沙湖，中卫。
昨天参观了西部影城。这里拍影过蛮多出名影片的:红高梁，黄河绝恋，大话西游等。昨夜在影城附近的华西村过的夜，吃了满肚子的羊肉，爽的。今朝兴高采烈的去了沙湖，后悔了。门票/ 船票80，但里面不怎么好玩。唯一有点兴趣的是骑骆驼，但20块只骑了2分钟，真扫兴。感觉这里是个骗钱的地方。
一小时巴士回银川，再三小时来到先所在的中卫市，明天进军著名的沙破头，然后内蒙的通湖草原，大概明天晚上可以住蒙古包。
宁夏这里的人真的好善良，我们受到的待遇就是游客应该得到的，很满意。城市里比我想象中先进，乡下比想象中落后。刚刚买了些枸杞和枸杞果酒，再逛会儿就回旅店休息。
一小时巴士回银川，再三小时来到先所在的中卫市，明天进军著名的沙破头，然后内蒙的通湖草原，大概明天晚上可以住蒙古包。
宁夏这里的人真的好善良，我们受到的待遇就是游客应该得到的，很满意。城市里比我想象中先进，乡下比想象中落后。刚刚买了些枸杞和枸杞果酒，再逛会儿就回旅店休息。
Wednesday, July 19, 2006
Tired from Hua Shan. Yin Chuan Tomorrow. 爬华山精彩但累，明日至宁夏银川。
I've been to all 5 peaks of Hua Shan (东，南，西，北，中峰). The trail is tougher and steeper than Huang Shan, but the latter mountain looks sharper. After many hours of stairs I'm kind of worn out -- need to rest and psych myself up for Ning Xia (宁夏银川) tomorrow.
More Hua Shan pictures:
http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1030968.html
Will have more photos when that USB cable and I meet again. Last night in Xi'An.
....
Just read some other people's blogs on Ning Xia travel. Must say I'm a little uneasy as Charity and I are travelling with some luggage and unprepared for the desert and the wild country, both in knowledge and in equipment. This was a last minute change of plans from the original Jiu Zhai Gou (九寨沟) idea. Price comes with creativity... Le's see how it goes.
More Hua Shan pictures:
http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1030968.html
Will have more photos when that USB cable and I meet again. Last night in Xi'An.
....
Just read some other people's blogs on Ning Xia travel. Must say I'm a little uneasy as Charity and I are travelling with some luggage and unprepared for the desert and the wild country, both in knowledge and in equipment. This was a last minute change of plans from the original Jiu Zhai Gou (九寨沟) idea. Price comes with creativity... Le's see how it goes.
Tuesday, July 18, 2006
Busy day in Xi'an. Huashan Tomorrow
Got on the tour minibus at 0730 with Charity, about 15 other tourist and a very eloquent mid-aged lady guide.
She wasn't happy about my joining her tour but sitting out the first 3 sites in the bus with a beer.
1. 临潼博物馆, Ling Tong Museum, 24 RMB, where the featured attaction was 4 of the "very first" Terra Cotta Warriors unearthed, and a piece of some shoulder bone of some famous budda. Later I found out that the 4 Soldiers were borrowed from the Terra Cotta site to boost business for the museum. I was right it was a waste of money, but some people buy the budda story
2. 华清池, 65 RMB, hot-spring-bath-themed park for the famous Yang Concubine 杨贵妃, as well as office and home of Chiang Kai-chek, after he was defeated by CCP
3. 秦始皇陵, 2x RMB, the grave site of Qin, the first emperor of China. This would have been a marvel to see except current technology still can't dig up this grave; furthermore, it is expected this will remain the case for 50 years in the horizon. Thus this site is nothing but a huge protrution of mud in the ground. You stand on it and wander what's 10 meters (?) below. Waste of money.
Charity went to the first 2 though.
We ditched the tour group and went to skip to 兵马俑, by ourselves. A local lady driver managed to temporarily convince us that the stuff in 兵马俑 was fake and was manufactured in one of the many factories along side the same main road as all of the above sites, and that if we were to see fake stuff, might as well pay 18RMB instead of 90 to see her friends fake 兵马俑.
So we bought her story and went to this "8 Wonders of the World" site, where the guide tried to convince us that Great Wall and the Leaning Tower wasn't among them. I got a little pissed and left the place then went to the 90RMB real 兵马俑.
I'd have to say it was quite something, but I'm not the type to appreciate it. Afterall, it's soldiers made from dirt, alot of them. I stare at them for about 20 seconds in amazement, then the next 2 hours was more or less boredom. I would have been more interested if the tour guide talked about the different weapons, and how they used them; but instead she spend alot of time talking about this farmer who discovered Terra Cotta, and now is famous and has a great signature designed by a famous caligrapher, and that if we buy this expensive book (which is not available elsewhere), he'd sign it for us.
I got more stuff to say about this but my card time in this computer cafe is running out.
Well, I ended the day with some nice food near 鼓楼 (Gu Lou -- Drum Gate), and bought a Tuo Luo to play with.
She wasn't happy about my joining her tour but sitting out the first 3 sites in the bus with a beer.
1. 临潼博物馆, Ling Tong Museum, 24 RMB, where the featured attaction was 4 of the "very first" Terra Cotta Warriors unearthed, and a piece of some shoulder bone of some famous budda. Later I found out that the 4 Soldiers were borrowed from the Terra Cotta site to boost business for the museum. I was right it was a waste of money, but some people buy the budda story
2. 华清池, 65 RMB, hot-spring-bath-themed park for the famous Yang Concubine 杨贵妃, as well as office and home of Chiang Kai-chek, after he was defeated by CCP
3. 秦始皇陵, 2x RMB, the grave site of Qin, the first emperor of China. This would have been a marvel to see except current technology still can't dig up this grave; furthermore, it is expected this will remain the case for 50 years in the horizon. Thus this site is nothing but a huge protrution of mud in the ground. You stand on it and wander what's 10 meters (?) below. Waste of money.
Charity went to the first 2 though.
We ditched the tour group and went to skip to 兵马俑, by ourselves. A local lady driver managed to temporarily convince us that the stuff in 兵马俑 was fake and was manufactured in one of the many factories along side the same main road as all of the above sites, and that if we were to see fake stuff, might as well pay 18RMB instead of 90 to see her friends fake 兵马俑.
So we bought her story and went to this "8 Wonders of the World" site, where the guide tried to convince us that Great Wall and the Leaning Tower wasn't among them. I got a little pissed and left the place then went to the 90RMB real 兵马俑.
I'd have to say it was quite something, but I'm not the type to appreciate it. Afterall, it's soldiers made from dirt, alot of them. I stare at them for about 20 seconds in amazement, then the next 2 hours was more or less boredom. I would have been more interested if the tour guide talked about the different weapons, and how they used them; but instead she spend alot of time talking about this farmer who discovered Terra Cotta, and now is famous and has a great signature designed by a famous caligrapher, and that if we buy this expensive book (which is not available elsewhere), he'd sign it for us.
I got more stuff to say about this but my card time in this computer cafe is running out.
Well, I ended the day with some nice food near 鼓楼 (Gu Lou -- Drum Gate), and bought a Tuo Luo to play with.
Sunday, July 16, 2006
Xi'an
Staying in a hotel near 鼓楼 (Gu Lou). Had a not-so-great noodel for lunch in Gu Lou but dinner was the famous 羊肉泡馍 and some other local dishes, quite good. Still, I'm hoping to taste better noodles in the coming days.
Plan tomorrow is to join some tour and go on a "East Line". It includes the Terracotta Soldiers (兵马俑), Qin's Grave (秦始皇陵) -- real and model versions, since real is too far underground to open up and get in. Another is 华清池 (Qing Hua Pond), where some famous concubine use to bath (alledgedly extravagant). They only charge 45 RMB per person to take to 7 places (door ticket not included), but of course they're hoping I'd buy some useless trinket at a heavy premium. Probably I'm going to Terracotta Soldiers and the Pond and sit out the rest of them.
The day after we're pondering Hua Shan 华山, which is supposed to be even steeper than Huang Shan. I'm looking forward to this one.
Other than that, just took a nap and walked around. People here are nice and simple, but still it's the biggest city in Shan3Xi (as opposed to Shan1Xi, which is a different eastbound province).
This cafe is full of cigarette smell.
Plan tomorrow is to join some tour and go on a "East Line". It includes the Terracotta Soldiers (兵马俑), Qin's Grave (秦始皇陵) -- real and model versions, since real is too far underground to open up and get in. Another is 华清池 (Qing Hua Pond), where some famous concubine use to bath (alledgedly extravagant). They only charge 45 RMB per person to take to 7 places (door ticket not included), but of course they're hoping I'd buy some useless trinket at a heavy premium. Probably I'm going to Terracotta Soldiers and the Pond and sit out the rest of them.
The day after we're pondering Hua Shan 华山, which is supposed to be even steeper than Huang Shan. I'm looking forward to this one.
Other than that, just took a nap and walked around. People here are nice and simple, but still it's the biggest city in Shan3Xi (as opposed to Shan1Xi, which is a different eastbound province).
This cafe is full of cigarette smell.
Saturday, July 15, 2006
Westbound
Flying to Xi'an to see Terracotta Soldiers first thing tomorrow with Charity from Taiwan. Hope I recover some tonight, feel kind of beat from too much travel and too little sleep. I'll rest more and blog a little less for the coming week or so.
Weather in HK.
Below is a freeze of a Hong Kong TV programming discussing whether people working in Central should rid of their jacket in the summer heat. HK is a very local place, I bet more HKers care about this than how many died in Palestine that day.
from left: Rosanne, Raymond, Wilson
14th was my birthday, happy birthday to myself
from left: Rosanne, Raymond, Wilson
14th was my birthday, happy birthday to myself
Thursday, July 13, 2006
无锡．Wuxi
It's pronouced "Woo-Hsi", and it's between Suzhou and Nanjing, 1.5 hr due west of Shanghai via fast train. I went there to visit Lixin and taste Wuxi ribs -- it's famous and incredibly tasty (you gotta have this). I was busy feeding myself and so forgot to take a photo to tantalize you all. Here's one from the web:
Thanks to Lixin, Noriko and their 2 great boys, my day trip was super relaxing. It felt like the kind of holiday I would have taken when I was working: nice meal, park, tea, nap, snack, swim, read ...
Wuxi is a modernizing city just like it's sister city Suzhou. Growing with foreign investment and keeping it's great Fengshui intact. The parks here are pretty like Suzhou but not jam-packed with tour groups with loudspeakers.
Boys, see you in Tokyo.
Thanks to Lixin, Noriko and their 2 great boys, my day trip was super relaxing. It felt like the kind of holiday I would have taken when I was working: nice meal, park, tea, nap, snack, swim, read ...
Wuxi is a modernizing city just like it's sister city Suzhou. Growing with foreign investment and keeping it's great Fengshui intact. The parks here are pretty like Suzhou but not jam-packed with tour groups with loudspeakers.
Boys, see you in Tokyo.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Huang Shan (Yellow mountain 黄山)
Yesterday was some day. It began at 2am with watching World Cup finals, which was very dramatic and fun to watch (for the record Zidane was red carded for head budding a likewise retiring Italian guy, and the match ended 5:4 Italy victory in penalty shootout). It ended some time after 5pm，at which time I was scrambling to find a place to watch the Sunrise ...
A lot of fun followed, and I ended my Huangshan trip in high spirit but rather low energy level, which was why I ditched my group headed for Hefei, and went on my own and flew back to Shanghai.
On the ride from Hong Qiao Airport to Pudong, I noticed many new high-end hotels and new serviced apartments in the south west downtown region. I wonder where they would find quality trained staff to service this outburst of luxury accomodation. There must be professional school that produce these members of the new economy, but I'm not sure supply meets demand there. If any one is experience and well-funded in this area, I bet they can make a killing charging tuition teaching the art of serving the 1st world way.
I shouldn't romanize my my breath taking experience on Huang Shan, so I'll work on the pictures first: they're overdue...
Photos finally up...
It was a 4 days, 3 nights trip organized by an agency that does 散客 (ungrouped travellers). I must say the logistics are fairly beefed up: The travel agency schedules for me different partial events of the trip and contracts them to actual service providers, so every whole event of the trip is with a different group.
Day 1 morning was a 6 hour long bus ride from Hefei to Tangkou (汤口), a town at the foot of Huangshan. Praise is that the bus goes fast and makes only necessary stop and the driver uses the break sparingly, which made a 6.5 hr trip only 5.75 hours. Criticism is that the bus is missing a bathroom, and the driver honks profusely, I don't blame the man since many small time villagers still treat state highways as their backyard, and, honking can reduced the need for breaking in many situations. Well it was an uncomfortable, noisy ride.
Day 1 afternoon, I went to 凤凰谷 (Phoenix Valley), and 竹筏漂流 (bamboo raft drifting). The valleys of Huangshan are marvellous but they all looks more or less the same: small streams flowing through special looking rocks, with frequent rapids, falls, backgrounded by hills and mountains. Drifting was a pretty good feeling. In the old days, this is how people moved around in China, very much at one with nature, in a setting behind the inspiration of many poets.Next the driver took us to a free tea tasting session at an affiliated business partner. The girl gave a nice intro on the 10 different types of tea harvested on Huangshan did such a good job that some of us gave in and bought some. They were at a premiun to the market (villagers homes of scenic sites), but I bought some 一叶参, which is good for people who fatigue from thinking. This particular tea look like large pebbles, each scrunched from a single leaf. A one person serving is about 1/3 of a leaf, and can last 8-9 days. This is one of the special teas that can be served overnight (over-week for that matter).
Day 1's events yielded extra income for the agency as the advertised "free afternoon" as promoted became "make more money afternoon". Well, one figures one can't go anywhere by oneself without a car in the middle of somewhere that might as well be nowhere. I spent an unplanned 150 RMB plus the 26 RMB tea.
Day 2 was both visually as well as culturally rewarding. First of two village stops was 宏村 (Hong Cun - Hong Village), a well preserved mountain village special in many ways. I've got some captions that tell the story at http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1019137.html
Hong Cun was truly beautiful. A large cohort of art students almost live here: Heavenly views, flowing lifestyles, in historic technology.
2nd village was 西递 (Xi Di - Xidi Village), which is more or less the same as Hong, but in somewhat different style and Fengshui.
... to be continued.
A lot of fun followed, and I ended my Huangshan trip in high spirit but rather low energy level, which was why I ditched my group headed for Hefei, and went on my own and flew back to Shanghai.
On the ride from Hong Qiao Airport to Pudong, I noticed many new high-end hotels and new serviced apartments in the south west downtown region. I wonder where they would find quality trained staff to service this outburst of luxury accomodation. There must be professional school that produce these members of the new economy, but I'm not sure supply meets demand there. If any one is experience and well-funded in this area, I bet they can make a killing charging tuition teaching the art of serving the 1st world way.
I shouldn't romanize my my breath taking experience on Huang Shan, so I'll work on the pictures first: they're overdue...
Photos finally up...
It was a 4 days, 3 nights trip organized by an agency that does 散客 (ungrouped travellers). I must say the logistics are fairly beefed up: The travel agency schedules for me different partial events of the trip and contracts them to actual service providers, so every whole event of the trip is with a different group.
Day 1 morning was a 6 hour long bus ride from Hefei to Tangkou (汤口), a town at the foot of Huangshan. Praise is that the bus goes fast and makes only necessary stop and the driver uses the break sparingly, which made a 6.5 hr trip only 5.75 hours. Criticism is that the bus is missing a bathroom, and the driver honks profusely, I don't blame the man since many small time villagers still treat state highways as their backyard, and, honking can reduced the need for breaking in many situations. Well it was an uncomfortable, noisy ride.
Day 1 afternoon, I went to 凤凰谷 (Phoenix Valley), and 竹筏漂流 (bamboo raft drifting). The valleys of Huangshan are marvellous but they all looks more or less the same: small streams flowing through special looking rocks, with frequent rapids, falls, backgrounded by hills and mountains. Drifting was a pretty good feeling. In the old days, this is how people moved around in China, very much at one with nature, in a setting behind the inspiration of many poets.Next the driver took us to a free tea tasting session at an affiliated business partner. The girl gave a nice intro on the 10 different types of tea harvested on Huangshan did such a good job that some of us gave in and bought some. They were at a premiun to the market (villagers homes of scenic sites), but I bought some 一叶参, which is good for people who fatigue from thinking. This particular tea look like large pebbles, each scrunched from a single leaf. A one person serving is about 1/3 of a leaf, and can last 8-9 days. This is one of the special teas that can be served overnight (over-week for that matter).
Day 1's events yielded extra income for the agency as the advertised "free afternoon" as promoted became "make more money afternoon". Well, one figures one can't go anywhere by oneself without a car in the middle of somewhere that might as well be nowhere. I spent an unplanned 150 RMB plus the 26 RMB tea.
Day 2 was both visually as well as culturally rewarding. First of two village stops was 宏村 (Hong Cun - Hong Village), a well preserved mountain village special in many ways. I've got some captions that tell the story at http://ethan.fotopic.net/c1019137.html
Hong Cun was truly beautiful. A large cohort of art students almost live here: Heavenly views, flowing lifestyles, in historic technology.
2nd village was 西递 (Xi Di - Xidi Village), which is more or less the same as Hong, but in somewhat different style and Fengshui.
... to be continued.
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